The Little Char Koay Teow Stall...

I still find myself being surprised time and again, and this time by a small stall which I never knew existed. My wife was told by her friend about a stall in Taman Uda that sells only Char Koay teow, and we were told not to go too late as the stall is fully sold out usually after 9pm.

Char Koay Teow, transliteration of "Fried Rice Noodle Strips" is one of the major contributions by the Chinese who immigrated to South East Asia. This dish is popular in Malaysia, Singapore, Brunei; also available in Vietnam, Thailand and even in Australia.

In Malaysia, the Penang Char Koay Teow is the most popular. Char Koay Teow might be the same in basis, but differs in accordance to the cook's interpretations. The most basic (and original) Char Koay Teow is usually made of ricecake strips/flat rice noodles fried with anything from eggs (chicken or duck), onions, garlic, prawns, cockles, Chinese sausage, et and garnished with chives or spring onions. As time goes by, lard has been substituted with cooking oil (but not olive oil) and the Penang Char Koay teow emphasises more on the use of prawns. These changes actually opened the door to more customers as pork product was eliminated.

There are various styles of Char Koay Teow being prepared. The traditional char koay teow is usually fried dry, usually spiced up by pepper and served with chili, fresh or pickled. The Malays adapted this dish and made their own version. Their contribution to this dish is ground chili paste. It is usually made from dried chilis, garlic and onion, ground into a paste. It is usually fried first before adding the koay teow. Times have really changed where now even the Malaysian and Chinese consume huge amounts of chilis. It is not surprising to find that there are a lot of Chinese customers frequenting Malay Char Koay Teow stalls for this reason. Even some Chinese stalls have adapted chili paste into their Char Koay teow as well.

While Penang is famous for their Char Koay teow, Kedah is more known for their Koay Teow Kerang (Koay Teow with Cockles), which is why I was surprised that there actually a good Char Koay Teow stall in Alor Setar. There might be Chinese Char Koay teow stalls in Alor Setar, but I do not know whether it is Halal or not.

The stall is located in one of the biggest Malay residential area, known as Taman Uda, which provides a quiet and tranquil ambience to the eatery place. The proprieter, Encik Aznil, whose experience in dishing out Char Koay Teow spans more than half of his lifetime. His father sold Koay teow Goreng in Tanah Merah when he was small, and I guess the skill was passed to him. It is a small stall, with about 4-5 tables. He sells only Char koay Teow and his friend sells drinks. The stall starts at about 4.30 p.m. and usually sold out by 10.30pm...or earlier.

I went there with my wife and son. We ordered two Char Koay Teow and one special Char Koay Teow without chili as my son doesn't eat hot food. Char Koay teow is best consumed hot from the stove. Aznill's cooking method is very much Chinese-style, frying over very high heat...flaming and fast. The slight difference is, he serves eggs sunny side up on top of the dish instead of incorporating them into the koay teow.

Aznill's dish has a rich taste of prawns, while the basic flavors are perfectly balanced. Of course, one could request more chili if he or she prefers it hot. A garnish of pickled cili padi is also included. I guess he didn't pickle it that long because it set

my tongue on fire. The taugeh, or bean sprouts are crunchy and the prawns taste fresh. This is not surprising as Aznill gets his daily supply fresh. The kosy teow is not that dry either, Aznill's dish is slightly wet but not too oily. The chilli paste, as explained by Encik Aznill, is made fresh from scratch by himself. This gives the koay teow a very nice taste compared to some stalls that uses the packed chili boh from hypermarkets. He also uses some of the usual sauces used in making Char Koay Teow, and only he knows the right measurement.

Aznill's stall is usually packed around the evenings, around 6 - 7.30pm, where people usually packs Char Koay teow for dinner. Anybody looking for an alternative from rice or looking for a snack for and after dinner, I would suggest Aznill's Char Koay Teow. Located about 10 minutes drive from Alor Setar town, and only less than 5 minutes from the North South Highway Alor Setar Utara Exit. At the moment, Encik Aznill concentrates on selling only Char Koay Teow but considers expanding the menu. I don't know whether he'll find time to do that as the Char Koay Teow business alone keeps him standing behind the wok for most of the business hours.

We Unofficially Announce That Dadih Is Dead...

I guess it's going to be a sad truth that some people might have to contend with. For months, I've been looking for Jo, the dadih maker without much luck. So, will the delicious, creamy, lip-smacking dadih be considered extinct from the gourmet world?

Okay, before anybody starts asking "What's he talking about? Dadih is aplenty everywhere" speech, I'll just clarify this. I'm talking about the original Dadih, and not the commercially-produced Agar-agar Susu.

What do I mean with "original dadih"? Well, Kedah IS believed to be the birthplace of these sweet desserts, and it seems that with the younger generation preferring (or does not know) Milk Agar-agar to the actual dadih, it looks like an extinction of this original treat will take place.

Dadih has been commonly labeled (or mislabeled) as "Sweet Yoghurt." Dadih is actually milk curds, solidified by means of hydration by enzymes derived from the barks of a tree known as Kasinai. Yes, I couldn't find that on google itself, so it's a bit difficult to describe more about this tree. I have seen it before, but it looks so commonly like other big trees, and not being a botanist, I'm not sure whether I can identify it again.

Going back to dadih, this sweet concoction was originally made from buffalo (Kerbau) milk, which is thicker and richer in taste and texture. In the 1970s, the population of buffalos decreased as more farmers turn to modern farming, and cow's milk became the regular ingredient for dadih. The milk is boiled and once that happens, sugar is added. Close to the end, the kasinai bark is added to the mix and stirred to release the enzymes. Once taken off the fire, the still-liquid dadih is ladled into bowls or, nowadays, into plastic cups which were then left to rest. During the resting period, the enzymes react with the milk and sugar mixture, hydrating it. As a result, water dries off, leaving behind a smooth, jelly-like curd. In some versions, the dadih is then steamed in order to heat them up. The dadih is ready to be sold, and enjoyed.

The actual dadih is served hot, or at least warm. If you leave it in the fridge overnight, the dadih shrinks and tastes sweeter as the hydration process continues. Dadih was commonly sold with Pulut Panggang (Roasted Glutinous Rice Wrapped In Banana Leaf). The pulut is dipped into the dadih and usually enjoyed during supper...as Jo usually sells his dadih after 8 p.m.

It is understandable why agar-agar is used: it is cheap and easy, and many have no idea what the kasinai tree looks like, let alone figure out why it was used. The amount of agar-agar used is not that much compared to making the traditional agar-agar, this is to keep the milk agar-agar softer, but watery.

In the late 1970s, I remember a young Jo on his motorcycle with a special made wooden box behind to keep the dadih warm, honking a hand-held horn. It was sold in bowls for less than RM1.00. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, dadih was sold in a much smaller plastic cup for RM1.00. The cup is even smaller than the milk agar-agar, but at least it is guaranteed that you get dadih, from fresh cow's milk, and no agar-agar. In the mid1980s, I remember Jabatan Haiwan & Pertanian started courses for making dadih where they used a type of culture, almost similar to the one used for making yoghurt, but that too requires refrigeration because after a while, the dadih becomes watery.

The milk agar-agar needs to be refrigerated, or stored in a cold place to avoid the agar-agar from melting. The milk agar-agar usually turns me off because the milk they used is usually full-cream milk, either from cartons or powdered. There are even those who uses condensed milk...well, it's condensed creamer. The original dadih sometimes incorporates a little powdered creamer, or even Coffee Mate. If one tries to dip Pulut Panggang into the milk agar-agar, it won't stick, not to mention the funny taste. Worse among all, the milk agar-agar is always too sweet to my liking. The older generation and those who knows, can describe the vast difference in taste and texture between dadih and milk agar-agar.

Nobody seems to know whatever happened to Jo, or where he is, but as far as I know, he is one of the last people who made the original dadih. He did complaint quite some time ago that getting fresh cow's milk was problematic, maybe that's why he stopped. I did try to call but I think he has already changed his number. For a guy who I met since the late 1970s, he didn't look that old the last time I met him in the early 2000s.

I am just hoping that he, or at least somebody else in Kedah still continues the art of dadih making, or we'll end up with the milk agar-agar and dadih becomes a forgotten history. If anybody knows where I can find the original dadih, please tell me.

Tomato-Based Delicacy

This is a recipe that seem to be stuck in my memory since childhood. My mom used to make this dish, usually to accompany nasi minyal, but I find it delicious going with plain white rice, or even with bread. I have no idea where this dish came from, it could be local, it could be handed down; anybody who knows this dish, if possible, please tell me what this dish is called or where it originated from. Based on the simple ingredients, the use of tomato and cream/milk, it does give an impression of being somewhere between Mediterranean and/or Middle Eastern/North African-ish. However, do give it a try, maybe you will find it quite a surprising to the senses.

Ingredients

Half a chicken - cut into small pieces (If preferred, use boneless chicken, cubed or bite sized)
A small can to tomato puree/paste.
3 medium sized onions ( 1 to mince and 2 to slice)
1/2 inch ginger
5 cloves of garlic (You can use less, I'm a fanatic when it comes to garlic)
Salt & Pepper to taste
1/4 can of evaporated milk/creamer.
A small can of peas

1. Peel onion, ginger and garlic - mince finely
2. In a hot wok, or a skillet, put some cooking oil
3. When oil is hot, fry the minced onion, garlic and ginger until fragrant
4. Pour the whole can of tomato paste/puree into the wok, keep stirring
5. Once oil breaks to the top of paste, give it another 1 or 2 minutes and add the chicken, cook until chicken is fully cooked.
6. Pour the evaporated milk/creamer into the wok. If you like it creamy, you can pour extra. If you don't like it too thick, add some water to the consistency that you prefer.
7. Add the sliced onions, stir until it softens
8. Turn off the fire and add the peas

Note: If you prefer fish, salmon or dory or fillet fish will be the best choice. Rub salt and pepper on the fish and sprinkle some flour, coating the fish but not too much. Pat off excess flour and pan-fry until the fish is cooked. For the sauce, follow the same recipe above without the chicken. Place fish on to a plate and pour the sauce over them.

It's very simple, have a nice time trying. Anybody who can identify this dish, please tell me.

Till The End Of 2010

My last article for 2010 was months ago, which seemingly to be millenias away. After that last posting, work suddenly caught up with me and more time spent in the office, leaving less and less time to try out new eateries, recipes and even less time to write.

At the end of October, Alor Setar was hit by a massive flood. I think it was one of the worst in the history of Kedah. Some blamed the currently in progress double railway tracking, some even blamed the Pedu Dam...though nobody seemed to notice the statistics of so much rainfall during that time, more than what caused the flood in 2005. Well, let's leave them and the speculations. My parents' house was hit by the floods, despite my father's attempt of raising certain portion of the ground level by a few feet. Lucky he did actually, if he didn't, all of his cars would've been submerged. So there I was, in the first few days of November, wading fast-moving, thigh-level waters towards my parents' house, eventually having to turn around and chase my slippers every now and then. My home in Mergong was unaffected though.

It was the scene of some houses, either half or fully submerged, that sinks the heart. While politicians talk of political manuovres and dividing and conquer, the flood water chose no politics, religion or even race in its wake. Properties destroyed, people made homeless and so many things. It was quite a relief to see the federal aid and various NGOs that raced to the welfare of the victims.

The days of wading the cold, smelly, polluted water took its toll on me when I went down with a flu-like fever which went on and off for a few weeks. During that time, I did manage to get better to celebrate my wife's birthday, which was about a week after the floods have fully subsided. As there were not much choice to go during that time, we ended at Kenny Rogers, which was located at Hotel Royale in Jalan Putra. The last time we went to Kenny Rogers was about 12 years ago. To my dismay, Kenny Rogers no longer has my favorite corn-bread...either that or the Alor Setar branch doesn't have any to offer. Largely, I have always favored Kenny Rogers over the boring local KFC and the questionable organic chicken of Radix Fried Chicken.

We actually took a break in December and went to Kuala Lumpur. I also came up with a plan whereby we would go to some of the famed or hyped-up eateries in KL and we'll rate it together for this blog. Amongst the planned premises were Burger Belemoih (Sloppy Burger) of Jalan Tangki Air in Ampang, Saba Middle Eastern Food of Jalan Jelatik and several others. Fate stepped in again, and on the third day of our trip, my wife and I went down with viral fever, which really sapped our energy away. Somehow, we did manage to bring our son to the much talked about I-City of Shah Alam. It was nice, but maybe it's still not completed. Hopefully there will be more addition to it.

After much hesitation and reconsiderations, I finally decided to start this blog again, and hopefully, there'll be more recipes and great eating places in Kedah that we can share.

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2011

P.S.: I actually wrote this on the 30th of December, 2010, but as usual, after 10 days of holidays, my mind and body seem to get numb and sluggish. It's still another holidays tomorrow though.

Marking The End of the Ramadhan Chapter

A man with an out-of-the-state accent slammed his car horn and shouted at me as drove into my office compound and parked my car at the second entrance. It seemed that he was trying to park at the gate entrance of my office and was somehow blocked by my car. He would've blocked vehicles from coming in and/or out of the office. I guess that's what hunger does to people, if he is actually fasting, he wouldn't be doing that. Don't you think he might get equally upset if I park my car at the gate entrance of his house? Hunger and going for shopping in the chaotic situation of Alor Setar can really drive people bonkers.

Anyway, I realized that 30 days of fasting really went fast. I stopped my food business on Tuesday, and Chet's Nasi Arab stopped on Wednesday. We had a remarkable time there, tiring but satisfied. Despite cutting out pasta from my menu, we made significantly more from the sales, not to mention from the custom-made shepherd pies and milk puddings which orders I received for the first time ever. As usual, the total from the sales will all go to my son's bank account. Hey. at least one day he can say to his friends, "My dad sells kuih by the roadside every Ramadhan."

As I mentioned before, the crowd has been unusual this, despite the hues and cries of economic downturn.

Both Chet and I, for the first time, had a complete 100% sold-out this year as proof. In fact, the final week saw my stall stormed by customers and fully cleared by around 4:30-4:45pm. Most of that time, I didn't have the chance to put my hat on. This year also sees, for the first time, how this blog generated a few customers for my stall. Also, for the first time, a friend from my MRSM days, Faris, sought me out there as well. Alhamdulillah, there's so much of God's bounty, not just financially.

My kuih is just the side-show, the Nasi Arab is always the main event...and the show-stopper. Here are some pictures that depicts the every Ramadhan day scene at our stalls, mainly, Chet's Nasi Arab stall.

And with that, we would like to wish all:

Selamat Hari Raya Aidil Fitri
Maaf Zahir Batin
From: Syed Alfian Barakbah, Sharifah Rafita Shahab and Syed Muhammad Zulkifli

In Ramadhan

In such a blessed month, I seem to relish Ramadhan so much. In retrospect, the fasting reminds all of us of the hardships suffered by those who are not so fortunate, and our zakat hopefully will, more or less, attempt to ease their suffering.

Despite the Ramadhan buffets offered by eateries in Alor Setar, I always opt to eat at home. Simply put, I cannot eat that much for breaking of fast. My break of fast mostly consist of water which I need to replenish after a hard and hot day of activities. So far, breaking fast at my parents saw me eating half plate of rice with something very simple, like sardine or dhalca...and 2 big glasses of pandan syrup.

My schedule gets more hectic during the Ramadhan month, my mornings to late afternoon spent finishing any tasks and/or assignment at the office, and I realy hate to finish today's assignments tomorrow. Around 4pm, my Ramadhan food-stall opens at Jalan Sultanah, and so far Alhamdulillah, sales has been very good. Late evenings are spent with the family and later making the Bengkang Susu.

I started with only 1 tray of Bengkang Susu and although a bit hesitant at first, I increased the supply to 2 trays. Alhamdulillah, so far I keep going home with empty trays. This year also saw Godam (Shepherd's Pie) and my sister's Black Pepper Beef Curry Puff totally sold out. I might just add another item to the menu or my Godam might run out of stock fast. Maybe Cornish Pie will be a good addition to it. I used to sell it about 3-4 years ago, and it was quite a hot item.

My stall was visited by somebody who happened to read this blog. Apparently she was looking for shepherd's pie, and found my blog, and from the blog, found my stall. Thank you for visiting my blog, and much thanks for visiting my stall as well.

Despite the upward trend trend in the price of milk, I still manage to sell Bengkang Susu at RM0.50 a slice. However I'm just hoping that the price will not go over RM40.00 next year, or I might have to increase the price, and if I do, it will be the first time I have to do it.

Before this week, I use to scout around the hypermarkets, looking for 2kg milk packs on promotion, but now I've decided to get them straight from the wholesaler. That actually saves time and I get to relax more with my family.

With all of that on my schedule, I never realized it has been 2 weeks of the fasting month already. National Day is just next week, and Hari Raya is 10 days after that. That's fast.

I guess that every Ramadhan makes me feel closer to my life=long dream, which is running a restaurant, not a posh elite one, just a simple eatery, with limited menu items. I might not have that courage and/or the resources to set that up, but running the food stall in Ramadhan? That is something I will always cherish.

Ramadhan Food Stall, I'm Back...What, No Pasta??!

The traffic gets louder and louder, it seems, and when my cousin arrives with his big pot of Nasi Arab, there was a small traffic congestion. What am I doing? Oh yes, I’m back! My stall is open again, next to Chet’s (Syed Nasir) Nasi Arab stall.

I have to admit that I spent the past few months preparing the pies or godam, and the only difference this year is, there is no pasta, or baked macaroni with cheese. Yes, yes, I did get a surprised and sghast looks from my normal customers but what can I say? This year, I really have my hands full. This year I have to make the milk pudding (bengkang susu) as my wife is working and too tired to do it, and my sister’s schedule is as hectic as it is. So, after a day of crash course, as instructed by my wife, I did manage to produce my own bengkang susu.

There’s not much variety this year, only godam (beef shepherd’s pie), black pepper beef curry puff and bengkang susu. That’s it.

So, this Ramadhan, I’ll be in the kitchen after buka puasa to make the puddings, and in the kitchen again around 2p.m. to bake the pies, and I’ll be at the stall at 4 p.m., around the same time Chet arrives to set up his Nasi Arab Stall. We are at the same place like last year. Do drop by if you want to try something slightly different (in Alor Setar) for buka puasa.

See you there...